Vietnam War Protests in Oceanside and the History of the Green Machine

Featured

A small cottage home near downtown Oceanside, California was once the headquarters of an influential protest movement during the Vietnam War. Celebrities such as Jane Fonda and Elliott Gould made appearances at the house to encourage and show support to protest organizers and their followers.

519 South Freeman Street in about 1991

In June of 1969 an underground organization known as the “Green Machine” affiliated with the Movement for a Democratic Military (MDM) met in a small home near Vista, and encouraged planned demonstrations at both the Camp Pendleton military base and in the City of Oceanside.  

The meetings were modest in size, attracting between 30 and 75 persons. The Oceanside Blade Tribune newspaper identified the local movement as an anti-war organization similar to other “coffee house groups across the nation” operating “under the guise of providing entertainment for servicemen while spreading an anti-war and anti-military message.”

Letter written by Kent Hudson in 1969 to Marine Blues

The group was headed by Kent Hudson and Pat Sumi, attracting a following of both military and civilians, mainly students.

Kent Leroy Hudson was born in 1944 in Riverside County, California. As a youth he attended Vista High School, graduating in 1962. Hudson was also a Stanford graduate and a Navy Reservist. In 1965, Hudson spoke at the Vista-San Marcos Democratic Club about his experiences in Louisiana and voter registration of Blacks that summer. 

Kent Hudson at Vista High School in 1959

In July 1968, Hudson had joined what the San Luis Obispo Telegram-Tribune called a “16-person troupe” who had organized small campaigns to encourage protests of the draft and oppression. The newspaper described the group as “bone-tired” and that their two-week campaign had exhausted their funds with no great result.

Hudson would find the following he was seeking one year later when he relocated his efforts to the Vista and Oceanside area in San Diego County. He first applied for a permit to operate a coffee house in Oceanside but was met with resistance from the city council. The group settled on a small house at 2133 North Santa Fe Avenue and converted the garage into a meeting space.

Oceanside Police Sergeant John Key described the location: “The house in Vista was surrounded by slit trenches that had been dug all the way around the house. There had been concertina wire strung on barricades that could have been pulled across the access to the house. It was, for all intents and purposes, fortified.”

Sumi and Hudson held modest gatherings, looking for support. Folksinger Barbara Dane offered it in the way of a performance and held a concert at the Armed Services Center in Oceanside.

USO building, Southeast corner of Third (Pier View Way) and Tremont Streets.

Volunteer workers and staff at the center were “surprised” by the performance as they expected folk, not protests songs. It was reported that the largely military audience joined Dane in singing anti-war songs and shouting “Join the ASU”, short for the American Servicemen’s Union. Hudson himself reported that one person in the crowd stood up and shouted, “Shoot the Lifers!”

After her performance, group members held a party at the house in Vista and a movement was born. Meetings were announced through “handbills” which were passed out to Marines by Green Machine supporters on Camp Pendleton. Then members picked up the Marines, and others interested in the meetings, on Saturday nights at various pickup points.

The Oceanside Blade Tribune described a typical meeting: “There the audience gets a soft-sell anti-war take from Pat Sumi, an accomplished speaker.  They are also served free coffee and beans, and often treated to folk-singing of anti-war and anti-military songs. Recent meetings have featured a Black Panther leader from San Francisco, and nationally known folk singer Phil Ochs, an avowed pacifist. The meeting featuring the Black Panther leader included “liberation” films and speeches threatening black insurrection.”

In perhaps to alienate white readers from the group, the newspaper described the attendees as predominantly Black: “Approximately two-thirds of the audience of about 65 was black, most were Marines, but there were also two black students from Oceanside attending.”     

A list of “demands” was published and distributed by the group, which read in part:

  1. We demand the right to collective bargaining
  2. Extend all human and constitutional rights to military men and women
  3. Stop all military censorship and intimidations
  4. Abolish all mental and physical cruelty in military brigs
  5. We demand the abolition of present court-martial and nonjudicial punishment systems
  6. We demand wages equal to the minimum federal wage
  7. We demand the abolition of the class structure of the military
  8. End all racism, everywhere
  9. Free all political prisoners
  10. Stop all glorification of war now prevalent in all branches of the military
  11. Abolish the draft and all involuntary enlistment
  12. Pull out of Vietnam now

The immediate goals of the Green Machine were as follows:

  1. Disturbances involving police were to be escalated by the military personnel
  2. Military personnel were to wear black armbands while on liberty in civilian clothes
  3. To have mass meetings in the Oceanside beach area on December 15, 1969
  4. To have another mass meeting at Buddy Todd Park on March 15, 1970
  5. To start a newspaper called the Attitude Check
  6. Marines were to create problems aboard the base at Camp Pendleton

While similar groups were organizing all over the country, the Green Machine’s presence was an uneasy and unfamiliar one for Oceanside. For over two decades the city had embraced the military and their families since the base was established in 1942 during World War II. The population included many former military personnel who chose to make their home in Oceanside after their stint (long or short) in the Marines or Navy. Many residents and business owners were in angst over the anti-war messages the group espoused, because even if they themselves were not in favor of the war, they wanted to support the military.   

It was clear that Hudson just wasn’t against the war, but against the Marine Corps as a military institution when he wrote the following statements:

No clear-thinking man joins the Marine Corps, there are to (sic) many better alternatives.”

I have yet to meet the marine who joined to serve his country. He certainly exists, but in a tiny majority.”

The Force Reconnaissance trainees I have met are mostly acid heads.

The Green Machine sponsored a bus trip to Los Angeles where members could meet with Black Panthers, and the group continued on to San Francisco to participate in a march. The trip was paid for by Green Machine “allies.”

The MDM held its first rally in Buddy Todd Park in September of 1969, where it first attracted the attention of local officials and police, and the FBI was kept advised of its activities. They began publishing an underground newspaper called “Attitude Check” which was offered to Marines in downtown Oceanside.

Theresa Cerda, a local resident recalled in a 1999 interview that she got involved in the group after attending a “love-in” in Cardiff. Kent Hudson spoke and asked if anyone was interested in “organizing the G.I.’s to resist the war” to meet with him afterwards.

A 17-year-old high school student at that time, Cerda explained that the movement was funded by “rich lawyers” who “were willing to fund us to be their mouthpiece, but they backed us with money and legal.  They were more the fundraiser people, the glamour, the upper echelon, we were the grunts, and we went out and did all the work.”

Hudson and group members would take vans from their house in Vista and travel to downtown Oceanside and walk the streets passing out leaflets. Teresa remembered that they were met with both resistance and acceptance. “On Hill Street [or] Coast Highway — that was very scary because we had a mix of people.  I remember several times when some of the Marines would get really upset and take stacks of stuff away from me and burn them. There were times when other Marines would gather around me and protect me and say, ‘this is freedom of speech and I want to hear what she has to say’.  It was usually the Black Marines, the African American Marines that would protect me.  And then soon, it started snowballing and then after that we had a good mix.”

Organizers planned a beach rally in Oceanside in November of 1969, an event that set many in Oceanside on edge. City officials attempted to block the organized march, appeals were filed, and protestors vowed to march with or without a permit. The Oceanside Blade Tribune urged residents to remain calm with an editorial entitled “Keep Cool Sunday”.

            “The courts will decide today whether Sunday’s march and rally in Oceanside will be held with or without the sanction of a parade permit from Oceanside. The constitutional questions of right of free speech and assembly are the heart of the issue – and whether the city’s decision is a political one as charged or merely enforcement of city ordinances.

            But the court decision is really secondary to the march for it will happen regardless of the court’s ruling.

            March organizers have stated they plan to walk through the city on the sidewalks – rather than parade through the streets – to fulfill the march plans.

            Organizers say it is too late to call off the march, and it is too late.  Leaflets have been distributed to colleges in Southern California advertising the demonstration.

            The spectre of violence, and that possibility is high in the minds of law enforcement officials charged with the responsibility of maintaining law and order Sunday, is a main overriding factor.

            There are rumors of marines from Camp Pendleton staging a counterdemonstration to protest the anti-war and anti-military philosophies of the marchers.

            There is also going to be a relatively large contingent of Black Panthers in the march and recent events involving the organization would indicate no love lost on their part for law officials.

            Angela Davis, the communist college professor, is also scheduled to speak and the massive patriotism of the area may likely be sharply prodded by what she may say in her speech.

            The potential for violence is high.

            But if everyone – marchers, the speakers, the marines, the spectators, and those pro and con – will just cool it Sunday, everything will go off without a hitch.

            Although there are always troublemakers in marches of this nature, the main body of the marchers are quit determined to keep things peaceful.

            March leaders have informed The Blade-Tribune they intend to do all in their power to keep the peace and are bringing 200 monitors in to patrol the march.

            There will be little sense in letting passions and tempers, however justified by philosophy and belief, flare into violence.

            The only loser will be the city of Oceanside.

            The march will only be a memory after Sunday, and it would be much better as a peaceful memory.”

The day of the march the Blade-Tribune minimized and mocked the organizers and persons expected to speak.

            “There is a beautiful lineup of characters for the day:

            –  Former military officers who wouldn’t follow orders;

            –  Black Panthers who have preached hate and violence in this country since their organization was founded;

            –  A Communist teacher;

            –  Leftwing “peace-at-any-price” speakers;

            –  Unhappy military types who can’t take discipline and order;

            –  A full parade of fuzzy-thinking, fuzzy-looking creeps.

            There is nothing good; you can say about this march, unless you espouse the thinking of those who support it.

            So stay home today. There are very few area residents who will be supporting this march.  Don’t be counted among them. Don’t help the Communist cause.”

In contrast the conservative stance the local newspaper took, John Richardson, a nephew of Oceanside Mayor Howard T. Richardson, was an avid supporter of the march and saw “the protest movement in this country as a means of solving problems.”  An Oceanside High School math teacher, he encouraged his students to take part or at least an interest in the MDM’s message.

John Richardson, Teacher at Oceanside High School

The Blade Tribune reported a list Richardson’s views and remarks:  “He views the reaction of Oceanside Police and town officials to both [the] march and the Green Machine as “in conflict with the Bill of Rights.”

“I get just as upset when I read of the reaction of most people to the Green Machine as I did when I heard President Agnew’s attack on the press,” said Richardson. “My own personal opinion is that there are many needs in this country which are just beginning to surface.”

The article continued saying “Richardson explained the presence of Black Panthers at Green Machine meetings by saying black servicemen aboard Camp Pendleton had “expressed a desire to find out what the Panthers is all about.” Richardson, who has attended “five or six” meetings of the Green Machine said however he had never been present at a meeting of that group when a Black Panther spoke. Yet, he criticized an eye-witness account of a Green Machine meeting at which Panthers did speak, published in the Blade Tribune.

“He explained that he had been at other meetings where the Panthers spoke and said he felt in sympathy with the reporter who attended the Green Machine meeting only because he knew it “must have been the first time he had heard the Panthers speak.”

“It can be scary,” said Richardson, “especially the first time someone is exposed to it. After that however you realize that they are speaking from their hearts and from the heart of the black ghetto,” said Richardson. “Their language is the language of the ghetto, and the ghetto is not a happy place.”

“We need change, and we need it fast,” he said. “This need for change…for good change in the American political systems is why I support the movement in general and why I support the Green Machine in Oceanside. The movement is where the demand for change if being generated.  Fear of the movement and fear of change is the situation Oceanside is confronted with.” He cited Oceanside’s “over-reaction” to the Green Machine as a case in point.

Illustration of law enforcement by Frank Zincavage, Oceanside High School Yearbook, 1970

The Movement for a Democratic Military, along with Rev. William R. Coates of La Jolla, coordinated the planned march and rally which was sponsored by the Citizens Mobilization Committee (CMC), which secured a court order for the march permit when the city council refused to grant it.

The march began at Recreation Park, just east of Brooks Streets and made its way west to downtown. It was reported that 250 active-duty servicemen participated and that they represented “almost 40 per cent of ‘snuffies’ in the Southland who sympathize with the MDM.” Snuffies were Privates or low-ranking military members.

The vast majority of the marchers came from outside of Oceanside from other organizations and included the Peace Action Council of Los Angeles, the Socialist Workers Party of Los Angeles, the SDS of Los Angeles and San Diego, the Black Panther Party of Los Angeles and were joined by the Young Socialist Alliance, Student Mobilization Committee, the Clergy and Laymen Concerned and Medical Committee for Human Rights.

The Oceanside Blade Tribune described the scene: “Marchers carrying hundreds of signs, most calling for an end to the war in Vietnam.  Many of the signs also urged support for various anti-war and anti-military groups.  Most of the marchers were young, in their teens and twenties, but several middle-aged persons and a few elderly persons marched. The vast majority of the marchers wore hippie or mod clothes, but some of the marchers were dressed in business suits and fashionable clothing.

“Hippies” by Frank Zincavage, Oceanside High School Yearbook, 1970

“Marchers chanted, “One, two, three, four, we won’t fight your fascist war,” and “Peace, Now!” and “Two, four, six, eight, let’s destroy this fascist state,” and “Power to the People.”

“A march cheerleader atop a bus leading the parade kept up a continual banter of slogans, many in support of the Black Panthers. There were few Black Panthers present, despite a scheduled mass turnout.

“There were very few spectators along the mile-long march route until it reached the downtown business area.  Most of the spectators were obviously against the march, but a few joined the march as it progressed downtown.

“A crowd of about 200 spectators, mostly Camp Pendleton marines, was gathered along Hill Street between Mission and Third Street.  Some of the spectators jeered and booed the marchers.

“Just before the march reached the Beach Stadium, a brief scuffle broke out when an angry marine attempted to charge a marcher who was carrying a Viet Cong flag. His companions and police subdued him.”

A vehicle parked along the demonstration route greeted marchers with the slogan, “Better Dead Than Red” painted on its side.  As the march continued on Hill Street to Third Street (Coast Highway to Pier View Way) a vocal gathering at the USO challenged the anti-war group with their own signs and slogans.

Counter-protestors “The American Machine” as opposed to the Green Machine, 1969, San Diego History Center photo

The march culminated at Oceanside’s beach amphitheater where the keynote speaker was Angela Davis. The local newspaper described her as tall and lanky and added she “could have passed for a high fashion model.”

It had been reported that an “armed pro-war marine” was “perched somewhere in the crowd with a rifle, ready to gun down Angela Davis, the Marxist UCLA assistant philosophy professor.” A request was made for members of the MDM to form a “human cordon” around Davis. The Blade Tribune reported that “at first, only black marines showed up but several white marines showed up when a call was issued, ‘Let’s see some whites up here too.’”

Protests coming down Mission Avenue, San Diego History Center

A group of 10 to 12 men accompanied Angela Davis and her sister Fanta to the stage at the Oceanside bandshell. It was noted that while surrounded by her protectors, Davis was “barely visible” while she spoke.

She began her speech by calling “Richard M. Nixon, our non-president, a hypocrite who is a killer, a pig and a murderer.” She called for an end to “genocide” and other “imperialist action” against the Vietnamese people and the black community, specifically the Black Panthers.”

Crowds filled the Oceanside Beach Stadium, 1969, San Diego History Center

“There are people who will be shocked about My Lai but they will do nothing more than sit back and say how outrageous it is. They don’t realize that My Lai is no exception.  It is the essence of U.S. government policy in Vietnam, just like the Chicago and Los Angeles raids are the essence of policy toward the Black Panther Party.

“The Green Beret is trained to murder Vietnamese.  In Los Angeles, the police pigs have a special squad rained to murder Panthers – SWATS, the Special Weapons and Tactical Squad who came to present the warrants to our 11 black sisters and brothers in the Panther office.

“Why are the Black Panthers the target of attack? J. Edgar Hoover said it is because the Panthers pose the greatest threat to national security.

“And we pose the greatest threat to the Nixons, the Reagans, the Yortys, the Kennedys, the defense industry, the ruling class of this country … because they have shown the masses that it is necessary for all oppressed people to unite.”

Davis went on to set the following demands:

            – Immediate and unconditional withdrawal of all troops in Vietnam.

            – Victory for the National Liberation Front, political speakers for the North Vietnamese.

            – Recognition of the South Vietnam Provisional Revolutionary Government, set up for the Paris peace talks, as being the true representatives of the people.

            – That the occupying force be withdrawn from the Black Community.

            – That all political prisoners, including Panthers Bobby Seale, Huey Newton and Eldridge Cleaver, be freed.

            – That the liberation movement be victorious for the oppressed peoples.

Davis was followed by Susan Schnall, a former Navy nurse who was court-martialed for participating in anti-war rallies. Other speakers were Captain Howards Levy, United States Army (Retired) and Don Duncan, an ex-Green Beret.

The protestors and demonstrators were observed by approximately 190 law enforcement officers, representing every agency in San Diego County. No arrests were made although there were skirmishes between Marines and demonstrators and varying factions amongst the gathered groups. Law enforcement “covered every intersection” and “monitored the parade route.”

After the speeches were over, demonstrators and spectators began leaving the beach stadium, but a group of angry Marines remained behind police lines. They eventually “dashed through the stadium and into the streets behind the dispersing demonstrators.”

The Marines, a group estimated at 75 “charged into the main body of demonstrators on Third Street (Pier View Way) near the Santa Fe Railroad tracks” and nearly two dozen people openly fought in the street. Marine PFC Merl Windsor, 18 years of age, suffered a laceration after he was struck in the head by a rock thrown by demonstrators.  

Law enforcement separated the two groups which ran east toward Hill Street (Coast Highway) and stood on opposite corners. The Marines waved a large American flag, and “cheered their side of the issue” while the demonstrators hurled “an occasional taunt and threat.” There was no other violence reported.

To restore order, police dispersed the crowds and drew a “line of demarcation down the middle of Third Street, and attempted to keep traffic flowing on Hill Street. By 6:30 p.m. the situation was termed “secure” and by 7 p.m. downtown Oceanside was nearly deserted.

“It’s a tough job when you must provide protection for both sides the peace-marchers and the counter-demonstrators,” Police Chief Ward Ratcliff told the Oceanside Blade Tribune. He added that the rumor of an attempt to assassinate Angela Davis was unsubstantiated. Ratcliff noted that none of the “estimated 3,500 to 4,000 demonstrators were left stranded in town” and that he was “thankful for the community support the police department received.”     

“There were times when they [police officers] were challenged and they remained calm.  We could have very easily had a serious situation,” Ratcliff said.

Mayor Richardson said the march “Looked like an open sewer running through the streets.”

Mayor Howard Richardson, left; John Steiger, right.

A few months later, in March of 1970, the Movement for a Democratic Military opened a coffee house in the Eastside neighborhood of Oceanside at 418 San Diego Street. It was reported that Black residents clashed with members of the MDM and that one evening shots were fired but no one was injured.

Just days after the Eastside location was established, and perhaps because of the unexpected confrontations, it was announced that the “Green Machine,” would be headquartered at a small house at 519 South Freeman Street.

Purchased for $19,000, the two-bedroom house was obtained via a “double closing” which is the simultaneous purchase and sale involving three parties: the seller, a middleman and a final buyer. This double closing was likely done in order the conceal the identity of the purchaser(s).

The Oceanside Blade Tribune reported that the “purchase was handled by Strout Realty, who were unaware of the actual buyers of the house. A complicated chain of trustees and secondary brokers which winds back to a Beverly Hills-based broker and a Palo Alto resident purchased the house, telling agents of Strout Realty that the property would be used as ‘rental income.’ [The] actual owner of the house apparently is Paul Robert Moore, of Palo Alto, who purchased the house through the Lawrence Moore trust funds.”

After the house was purchased on South Freeman Street, Cerda recalled meeting celebrities like actress and activist Jane Fonda, her sister Lynn Redgrave, along with actors Donald Southland and Elliott Gould, who provided financial support to the movement. Katherine Cleaver, attorney, Black Panther activist and wife of Eldridge Cleaver provided political clout and legal support. While visiting the MDM headquarters celebrities and those with political status would build up the morale of members by visiting and eating “beans from a pot” with them.

A flyer was distributed that read: “The Green Machine Project and Movement for a Democratic Military invites you to an Open House and MDM Meeting.” It went on to say that “We are going to have political speakers Robert Bryan and others from the Southern California Black Panther Party, and special guest, Miss Jane Fonda.”

A leaflet was distributed in the downtown neighborhood which stated in part: “The Green Machine Project and Movement for a Democratic Military have moved into a staff house and meeting place at 519 S. Freeman. You have probably heard or read a great deal about us in the past few months, much of it negative. We would like to have a chance to counter many of the distortions and outright lies by opening our doors to you. We would be pleased if all our new neighbors would stop by and chat with us to find out what we are really all about. Our doors are usually open from noon until late in the evening every day except Monday.”

On Sunday March 22, Jane Fonda arrived at the small house on Freeman Street, accompanied by three members of the Black Panther Party. She met with approximately 30 guests at the MDM headquarters, stayed about two hours and then departed.

Jane Fonda at UCLA, Gary Leonard photographer

While the invitation passed around seemed welcoming, the house itself was fortified and its occupants armed. Sandbags had been stacked to create a barricade on the interior of the home. Gun ports made of bricks were spaced between the walls of sandbags. The attic contained a bell and a “light warning system.”  

Six weeks later, on April 28th, the house and its occupants were fired upon by an unknown gunman in a car. Eleven rounds were fired, one striking and wounding Pvt. Jesse Woodward, Jr., of Support Company, H&S Battalion, Camp Pendleton. Woodward was struck in the shoulder and taken to the Naval Hospital aboard Camp Pendleton. Identified as a “deserter from the Marine Corps” Woodward, age 19, had been absent without leave for over 4 weeks, a base spokesman said.

The Oceanside Police Department were called and dispatched to the residence at 11:55 p.m. Upon their arrival they found “about a dozen rounds of ammunition, probably .45 caliber, had been fired into the front of the house.” Police confiscated eight to nine rifles and shotguns in the possession of the MDM group.

An unidentified woman at the house was shaken, “We’ve known something like [this] might happen for a long time and our first reaction was to hit the floor.” She pointed to a large cut on her knee saying, “this came from crawling through the glass.”

Thomas Hurwitz, one of the organizers of the MDM claimed that the group was unaware that Woodward was a deserter and responded to the shooting advocating for peace: “We are urging those who attend to adopt a non-violent attitude. We don’t scare easy. We are angered and feel it was a political action.  This was meant to scare marines but all it will do is make them realize we are fighting for them. It didn’t scare them … people in the military are used to being shot at, but it did make them angry.” Hurwitz, who devoted several years to anti-war protests and activism would go on to be a notable documentary cinematographer, with two Emmy Awards and a host of other awards and accolades.

The Oceanside Blade Tribune condemned the shooting in an editorial that ran May 3, 1970, entitled “Dangerous Move.” 

The Movement for a Democratic military and its predecessor, the Green Machine, have raised a lot of hackles in the North County area since they were formed last year.

“The philosophy espoused by these anti-military, anti-war groups is a direct contradiction to the general philosophy of the average resident of North County. It is understandable that feelings are so firmly polarized about these two philosophies.

“Much of the North County is retired military men who believed in the Armed Services so strongly they made it their lives’ career. The small but determined group of people who compose the MDM and Green Machine have made themselves strongly felt in the area, while accomplishing little. Most people in the Tri-City area look upon the two groups as little more than troublemakers, and the two groups have done little to prove otherwise.

“The Blade-Tribune, which first brought the machinations of these groups to the public eye, questions the motivations and honesty of the MDM and Green Machine. They have publicly admitted that their intent is to tear down the military, the backbone of the nation’s defense. They hedge when asked where their funding comes from, and just who supports the non-working crew. They have done little but cause trouble in the community, from polarizing the dissident blacks at Camp Pendleton to attracting every unhappy “marine” who bit off more than he could chew when he enlisted. They stir up trouble, under the guise of “liberating the enlisted man.” They deserve all the public dislike and distrust they have generated.

“But no matter how vociferous the disagreement, the differences should never have come to the shooting which occurred on Tuesday night. That act is far more damaging to the situation in the north County than weeks of weak, ill-attended and poorly supported demonstrations by the MDM.

“The residents of this area should be relieved that no one died in that shooting of the MDM headquarters.  The 25 or so persons in the home at the time miraculously escaped the 11 shots fired. Had one of those persons been killed, it would have polarized the forces supporting the MDM, given the group a martyr, and likely prompted an influx of national leftwing radicals into the area.

“The North County can live with the MDM, despite how strongly most of the area’s residents oppose the group’s philosophies. But it cannot live with what will result from any more of the idiocy which prompted the gang-style shooting attack on the MDM staff house on Tuesday.

“The Blade-Tribune recommends those who disagree with the MDM make their protests in the form of staunch patriotism, not in midnight sneak attacks.”

On April 30, 1970, just two days after the shooting, the MDM organized a demonstration at Santa Fe Park in Vista. Several people were arrested for “disturbing the peace, parading without a permit and unlawful assembly.” Pleading not guilty were Michael Anthony Lawrence, 25, disturbing the peace and unlawful assembly; Thomas Dudley Horowitz (sic), 23, disturbing the peace and parading without a permit; Pvt. Maurice Carl Durham, 20, disturbing the peace; LCpl. William Curtis Chatman III, 21, violating the parade ordinance; James Nelson Snyder, 22, disturbing the peace; and Teresa Cerda, 18, disturbing the peace and parading without a permit.

MDM march from Tyson Street across tracks May 1970 (photo by Nick Bihary)

Just weeks later city leaders and downtown business owners would brace themselves for another “anti-war march and rally” expected to draw a crowd of 20,000. The city again denied a parade permit which the MDM appealed. U. S. District Court Judge Howard B. Turrentine temporarily upheld the city’s denial but set a hearing on the matter. Leaders of the protest said they would go forward with their planned demonstrations with or without a permit.

MDM March across railroad tracks May 1970 (photo by Nick Bihary)

Governor Ronald Reagan’s office issued a statement saying that that “the governor will keep a close watch on the situation in Oceanside, since receiving a telegram Thursday from U. S. Senator Alan Cranston (D-Calif.) in which the senator declared the demonstration ‘Poses a serious threat of possible violence.’” Adding that “If mutual aid is requested, we are ready to supply whatever assistance is needed.”

Law enforcement both city and county met to assess the pending protest. It was reported that the National Guard would “be on an alert, if the situation should get out of control.”

Riot police ready for MDM march at Pacific Street May 1970 (photo by Nick Bihary)

Mayor Howard Richardson stated that, “Oceanside has no intention of providing demonstrators with reasons for violence.  We shall do all within our power to assure the demonstration remains peaceful.”

An unidentified spokesperson for the MDM told the local newspaper that demonstrators would gather at the municipal parking lot at Third (Pier View Way) and Cleveland at 12:30 p.m. Saturday and that protestors would “march south to Tyson; west on Tyson to Pacific Street; South on Pacific to Wisconsin; West on Wisconsin to the Strand and north to the beach stadium.”

Tom Hurwitz stated that he was working with Oceanside police in an effort to keep the demonstration peaceful and added “we will have several hundred monitors to assist the police in controlling the march as it moves from the assembly area to the beach.”

Marchers at the intersection of Mission and Hill Street (Coast Highway) in 1970

On May 16, 1970 an organized march and protest was held but numbers were much lower than the 20,000 persons predicted. A reported 700 law enforcement officers and 200 monitors provided by the MDM watched as a crowd of 4,000 to 5,000 gathered on the streets of downtown Oceanside.

Kent Hudson declared the march a “tremendous success” and praised both the monitors and police for their handling of the situation. The march began with shouts of “Stop the War” and “Peace Now” as well as anti-Nixon, anti-war chants.

It was reported that some of the demonstrators lashed out at the military guards present, shouting obscenities, but the newspaper reported that they were, for the most part, “drowned out by anti-war chatter and hand-clapping by the protesters.”

Footage of 1970 protest from CBS 8 San Diego below:

As the march continued towards the beach, a Santa Fe freight train came into town, blocking the protesters from continuing on their route. After a disruption of ten minutes, the engineer was instructed to proceed south to San Diego without picking up his intended freight. Protesters then made their way south on Pacific Street to Wisconsin where they walked the Strand to the Beach Stadium.

March interrupted by Freight Train in downtown Oceanside, San Diego History Center photo

Tom Hayden, a founder of Students for a Democratic Society, who would later marry Jane Fonda, was the main speaker. There were a few clashes from counter protestors throughout a series of speeches but each were broken up by police.

It was noted that at the end of Hayden’s speech, several demonstrators raced from the stadium into Pacific Street when a small group of counter-demonstrators led by youths for American Freedom burned a Viet Cong flag” and that “during a brief melee between the counter demonstrators and MDM members, one protester was knocked to the ground.”

People’s Armed Forces Day, Oceanside Bandshell, May 1970 (photo by Nick Bihary)

The Oceanside Blade Tribune reported that near the end of the event “all servicemen were asked to stand and show their Military identification cards. Of those who rose to comply at least one burned his card, waving it in the air. Then he swallowed the ashes.”

The newspaper concluded its report that “Many of those present at the demonstration reeked of marijuana.  Others were stone-faced apparently bored by the whole affair or under the influence of drugs. But, the demonstration was peaceful. There were no injuries and no arrests.”

 The following day an editorial ran in the conservative leaning Oceanside Blade Tribune entitled “We Wonder.”

The Blade-Tribune wonders what makes a person like most of the 5,000 or so who marched in the anti-war march in Oceanside Saturday.

We wonder how far the rights of this small-minority of rabble-rousers extend.

We wonder where are the rights of the people who make this country work, who pay the bills, and protect the nation.

We wonder why there are so many leftwingers, communist sympathizers and communists involved in the “peace” movement.

We wonder where the money comes from to support these people who don’t work, but work at undermining our nation.

We wonder why these people are allowed to flaunt the law, marching without parade permits.

We wonder why we, the taxpayers, must foot the bill for their parades.  If they want to march, let them pay the bills.

We wonder why the Movement for a Democratic Military, our local radical group, and sponsor of the Saturday “anti-war” march, is so closely allied with the Black Panthers.

We wonder why so many of our teachers, who are shaping the minds of our children, are actively involved in supporting this movement.

We wonder why our school boards, boards of trustees, and other educational panels, haven’t got the guts to kick campus radicals off campus.

We wonder when the courts are going to get tough and stop bending over backwards to please these idiots.

We wonder if the news media as a whole isn’t encouraging these groups by poking television cameras and microphones and news cameras into their faces every time three of them get together and hold up a sign.

Finally, we wonder when it became unpopular to be a good American, to operate a profitable business, to serve the country, protect the nation.

We don’t think it is unpopular to do these things, but there are too many young radicals undermining this nation by degrading these principals.

Good Americans can only wonder what makes a protestor.  We’re getting a pretty good idea.

Artwork in Oceanside High School Yearbook, 1970

In the summer of 1970, cracks in the unity of the various groups began to show. In July of 1970 Pat Sumi left for North Korea with a group which included exiled Black Panther Leader Eldridge Cleaver. A spokesperson for the MDM said that Sumi’s trip was “financed by several liberal groups located in Southern California.” The group were guests of the Committee for Reunification of Korea.

Just one year later, in 1971, Pat Sumi did an interview and was asked about the Movement for a Democratic Military and if it still existed. She gave a rather defeated reply: “Well, MDM still exists in the minds of people—but that’s not an organization, we discovered. We discovered what the Black Panthers have since discovered—that mass sympathy does not at all mean mass organization. Mass sympathy does not give you the power to change anything. We didn’t understand what an organization was.”

She then offered a different perspective about the group’s efforts and its impact saying, “We really messed up some G.I.’s. A lot of them went to jail. Some had to go AWOL. A few went to Canada. We had no way really to organize power to protect G.I.’s when they were arrested or harassed.”

Of the shooting of the MDM headquarters at 519 South Freeman Street she said: “Finally, the thing that really broke us was in April of 1970, last year. Someone fired 12 rounds into the MDM house and nearly killed a G.I. That was when we discovered we had no organizational way to respond. That was it. That was the crisis. That was when the pigs decided to confront us. That was when we discovered we had no real power.

“After that, it was downhill for the organization. I didn’t understand all this. Last summer, I was running around in Asia telling everyone about MDM when, in fact, it was really falling to pieces. I came home and there was no MDM left.”

In 1972 Oceanside Police Chief Ward Ratcliff, along with Police Sergeant John Key, attended a hearing for the “Investigation of Attempts to Subvert the United States Armed Services” held by the Committee of Internal Security, House of Representatives.

At the hearing the two were called to testify about their knowledge of the Movement for a Democratic Military and its activities in and around Oceanside, along with its principals and the celebrities that supported their cause. By that time the MDM aka the Green Machine, was no longer in Oceanside. Key testified that problems amongst the group surfaced in June of 1970. The Black Unity Party, established by Black Marines, eventually split from the MDM.

In her 1971 Pat Sumi discussed the difficulties amongst the various groups and reflected upon the outcome of the group’s seemingly failed mission:

“I discovered that in relating to international revolutionary movements, you have to represent something. For most of us, except for the Panthers—and even now for the Panthers, it is a question of who do they really represent—you shouldn’t get a bunch of individuals to go. It’s not useful. I suppose what it did do was to heighten my consciousness of the real critical need in the American movement for a party; some kind of guiding force that can take leadership in struggle.

“We don’t have it yet. Everyone is floundering around, trying to find direction on their own. I suspect this period of pre-party struggle will last a great deal longer; in fact, too long. I think we’re going to find that we’ll have to have a party, because a whole lot of us are going to wind up in jail. There’s a good possibility in the next two, three, four years that there’s going to be a massive repression. I don’t think it’ll kill a whole lot of us—but it will put a whole lot of us away.

“People are going to understand what we understood when the pigs decide to confront us, that if you don’t have the organizational power to meet that crisis, then comes the question—’Can you make it, can you make an organization? Will you have that power?'”

In July of 1971 the Oceanside Blade Tribune reported that the “Last Combat Marines” were returning from Vietnam. Members of Support Company, 7th Communications Battalion and Forces Logistics Command aboard the USS St. Louis would arrive Monday, July 19th at Pier “E” at the Long Beach Naval Station. U.S. Military involvement in the Vietnam War continued until 1973.

519 South Freeman Street, 2020 Google view

Today the little house on South Freeman Street still stands. Its cottage-like architecture belies its role as headquarters of a war protest movement, which for a brief time was the gathering place for young activists, counter-culture revolutionaries and celebrity sympathizers.

The Rise and Fall and Rise Again of the Oceanside Pier

The pier fire on April 25, 2024 shocked residents of Oceanside, stunned to see clouds of black smoke covering the pier, and blanketing downtown.  People lined Pacific Street, streaming live on social media as they watched the pier burn and firefighters battle the blaze. Scores of fire trucks, boats and air support were assembled as the black smoke billowed over downtown. As the fire raged on it seemed the pier would be lost. Smoke and flames continued through the night and daybreak. Emerging from the flames the Oceanside pier stands heavily damaged on the west end. But it still stands.

Oceanside Pier Fire April 24, 2024 (Fox 5 San Diego)

The Oceanside Pier has been built and rebuilt six times. It has become a part of our identity as a city. It is part of who we are and we feel emotionally connected to it.  

Pier smoldering into the night and next morning

One hundred thirty-six years ago, our first pier was built in 1888 at the end of Wisconsin Street (formerly Couts Street). That same year Oceanside incorporated as a city. The first pier was called a wharf and it was hoped that Oceanside would become a shipping port. Built by the American Bridge Company of San Francisco, by August the wharf was built to an impressive length of 1200 feet. But the first pier was damaged by storms in December of 1890 and reduced to 940 feet.  By January 1891 a larger stormed finished what was left and swept away all but 300 feet of Oceanside’s first pier and the beach was covered with its debris.

Only known photo of Oceanside’s first pier (in the far distance) taken 1890 (Oceanside Historical Society, Carpenter collection)

While short-lived, Oceanside was invested in having another wharf or pier. Melchior Pieper, manager of the South Pacific Hotel, initiated the idea of rebuilding as he gathered lumber from the first pier that had washed to shore and stored it behind his hotel on Pacific Street.

Pieper suggested that the pier be built at the foot of its present location, Third Street (now Pier View Way).  There was some resistance against the Third Street location, a site between Second and Third was favored, but A. P. Hotaling, the hotel owner, agreed to donate $350 so city officials relented. Pieper donated an additional $100 and offered to house the workmen for free.

The building of Oceanside’s second pier in 1894 (Oceanside Historical Society)

Oceanside’s second pier was completed in 1894. It was small, just initially 400 feet into the ocean, and braced with iron pilings, giving it the name of “the little iron wharf.” It was later extended a few hundred feet, but by 1902 it was damaged severely by heavy storms.

Residents were resolved to have a pier, however, and in 1903 Oceanside’s third pier was built. Supported by steel railway rails purchased from the Southern California Railway Co., it was nearly 1300 feet, later extended to 1400 feet.  It was hailed as Oceanside’s “steel pier.”

Oceanside’s third pier built in 1903 (Oceanside Historical Society)

Again, storms took a toll on our pier when in 1912 supports were swept away from the end of the structure, leaving the stumps of railway steel exposed. Since diving from the pier was allowed, this posed a danger.  A warning sign was put in place to prevent divers from diving from the extreme end. By 1915 the steel pier which once seemed almost invincible, was down to a little more than 800 feet. 

Voters approved a $100,000 bond issue in 1926 to build a fourth pier. In December of that year a single bid of $93,900 from Sidney Smith of Los Angeles was accepted and work began the same month.  Compromises were made as to the construction of the pier as many had called for a concrete pier but the cost was prohibitive. Instead, a concrete approach was built, 300 feet long, with the remaining 1,300 feet built of wood. ( That same concrete portion is still used today, but it now needs to be rebuilt.)

Oceanside’s 4th pier built in 1927 (Oceanside Historical Society)

When the 1600-foot pier was dedicated on July 4, 1927 Oceanside threw a three-day celebration that drew an estimated crowd of 15,000-20,000 to participate in the weekend of festivities.

Pier celebration 1927 (Oceanside Historical Society)

By the 1940s it was evident that the fourth pier would have to be replaced.  The pier that celebrated the roaring ’20s, and survived the Depression, had also aided in World War II. A lookout tower was erected on the end to aid in the search for enemy aircraft and submarines. The added weight of this tower left the pier weakened to a point where its safety was questioned.

Resident E.C. Wickerd, described as a “pier enthusiast”, circulated petitions in favor of saving the pier. He stated, “The pier has been one of Oceanside’s biggest advertising and tourist assets, and should be protected.” But with continuing heavy storms in 1945 and 1946, the pier was closed after being deemed unsafe by deep sea divers and engineers. 

In late February 1946 the proposal was made for a bond election to reconstruct the Oceanside pier.  Three hundred signatures were needed to get on the April 9th ballot.  The needed signatures were collected and the bond election passed. The $200,000 bond would build Oceanside next pier in 1947 to a length of 1,900 feet –the longest on the West Coast.

Fifth Pier built 1947 (Oceanside Historical Society)

The white-railed pier could take fisherman and pedestrians out farther than any of its predecessors.  A 28-passenger tram operated by the city could take guests out to the end of the pier and have room enough to turn around.  McCullah sportfishing took enthusiasts out to fishing barges anchored over the kelp beds a mile out. For years this pier stood longer than any other pier the city had built previous. 

California Dreamin’ … Oceanside’s beautiful 5th Pier (Oceanside Historical Society)

But piers do not last forever and after nearly 30 years, it was showing its age. In 1975 the pier was faced with closures after severe storm damage and in October, Public Works Director, Alton L. Ruden said that the “pier could collapse at any time, and it would cost more than $1.4 million to replace it.  Some morning we’re going to wake up and there won’t be a pier.  It can go in an hour.  It’s like a string of dominoes.  But it’s only during storms that it is dangerous and that’s why it’s closed, when necessary.”           

After nearly 30 years, it fell victim to the relentless storms. It was damaged in 1976 by heavy surf and then a fire at the Pier Cafe caused further damage. The end of the pier was open, vulnerable, angled to the north and had to be amputated.

The Oceanside Pier damaged by storms in 1978 (Oceanside Historical Society)

The pier was placed as “No. 1 priority in the redevelopment plans for downtown” but it would be over a decade before a sixth pier was built.

Funding of the pier came from the Wildlife Conservation Board, State Emergency Assistance, Community development, the State Coastal Conservancy and the Federal Emergency Management Agency.  The new pier proposed would be nearly 1,500 feet long and would include a restaurant, tackle shop, lifeguard tower and restrooms.  The total cost, including the demolition of the 1947 pier, was then estimated at $3 million dollars.

Oceanside’s Sixth Pier in 1988, photo by Lu DeLucy

In August of 1985 Good & Roberts, Inc. of Carlsbad was awarded the contract to restore the concrete portion from the 1927 pier. In early 1986 the construction contract was awarded to Crowely International of San Francisco, the same city that built our first wharf in 1888. The new pier was built 3 feet higher at the end than the previous piers.  This was because the waves do their greatest damage there.  By raising the end, the life of the pier could be extended.

Oceanside’s sixth and present pier was dedicated and formally opened September 29, 1987.  At a cost of $5 million dollars the pier was 1942 feet long and deemed the longest wooden pier on the west coast. Engineers said it could last 50 years.

Our pier is a beloved landmark. A wooden promenade out to the ocean that hundreds walk every day, thousands each year.  While there are other piers in a handful of coastal cities, our pier has been a testament to our resilience and determination.

The pier is synonymous with Oceanside. If history tells us anything, we can and will rebuild again. We will see our seventh pier sooner than expected? If repairable, we will enjoy and appreciate this one for years to come. This isn’t the end, it’s only a new chapter in Oceanside Pier history.

Hidden Beauty, The History of the Mason Building (301 North Hill Street aka Coast Hwy)

On the northwest corner of Third and Hill Streets (Pier View Way and North Coast Highway) sits an empty building that has seen better days, with its exterior scraped away, windows broken and metal awning left to rust. No one can remember the building in its glory days but many will remember the H&M Military store owned by Harry and Mary Cathey, a popular destination for Marines needing essential gear. It was the largest of the many military stores that once filled Oceanside’s downtown business district.

Mason building, aka H&M Military Store at 301 North Hill Street/Coast Highway. (Photo taken March 8, 2024)

But the building pre-dates Oceanside’s relationship with Camp Pendleton and its Marines. Nine decades ago this was once a beautiful art deco style building. Modernization may hide its original exterior but perhaps one day it will be restored.

Prior to the present building, Charles D. Merrill and his brother William owned the property. They were the first licensed Ford dealership in Oceanside and in 1920 built a new building on the prominent corner in downtown Oceanside and further expanded it after 1925.

Merrill’s Garage was a Ford dealership, located at Third and Hill Streets in the 1920s. Note the historic Schuyler building to the left. Oceanside Historical Society

Paul Beck, co-owner of the Oceanside Blade Tribune newspaper recalled the Merrill’s dealership when he arrived in Oceanside in 1927: “Across the street to the West was the Merrill Brothers Ford Agency.  Having no transportation upon arrival in Oceanside, one of the first deals that the young Becks made was for a Model A Ford.  As I recall, the total price was $475, and we talked the Merrill’s into a “due bill”, which meant $400 cash and $75 in advertising.”

The Merrill building included a storefront that was situated on Third Street (Pier View Way). In 1929 Ed Wolmer leased that space, at 410 Third Street, to open a music store.

The February 5, 1929 Oceanside Blade reported:  Rebuilding of the lower floor of the building at 410 Third Street to be occupied by the Ed Wolmer Music House is well along and Mr. Wolmer states that he is expecting to be in his store by the last of the month.  The front has been modernized and the interior handsomely refinished and when completed the store will be a most attractive salesroom for the display of the extensive line of pianos, radios, panatropes, and musical merchandise which will be carried.

Two years later the Merrill Bros. moved their Ford dealership just to the north, near the center of the block, and sold the property to B. A. and Marian Mason in 1931.  Despite the fact that a Depression was gripping the country, the Masons began construction of a two-story brick building on the property.

The November 19, 1931 Oceanside Blade Tribune reported the following: Operations on the new Mason building, being erected at Third and Hill Streets, will be resumed tomorrow, according to a statement from Omer Nelson, superintendent in charge. Delay in the erection of the building was brought about by negotiations regarding the expansion of the building to take in another story. “We are resuming operations,” said Nelson, “while the parties continue their negotiations toward the expansion of the building.  We are holding things open so that if necessary, we can make a third story to the build.” Work on the building has been at a standstill for the last few days, with part of the brick walls erected.  Nelson is on the job today, preparatory to getting the full construction crew back on the job again tomorrow.

The third story was not added and the building was completed in early 1932. The lessee was Wolmer’s Music House who moved from their former location fronting Third Street into the new Mason building fronting Hill Street.

Ed Wolmer’s Music House on the northwest corner of Third and Hill Streets, 1932. Oceanside Historical Society

Oceanside resident Ernest Carpenter remembered in an interview: “It was a music store, sheet music and all that kind of stuff. They had a big statute and I can’t remember, a dog, a big statue of a Dalmatian in the front. When I was a little kid I didn’t want to walk on that side of the street because I was afraid of that dog!” 

Mason building to the right, looking west on Third Street (Pier View Way). Note the dog statute. Oceanside Historical Society

Wolmer’s Music Store, remained at 301 North Hill Street for several years, and also sold appliances. In 1946 Bob Shaffer and Gordon Duff purchased the appliance business and moved it to Third and Freeman Streets.

In 1940, Henry and Lina Howe bought the Mason building at 301 North Hill Street and owned it for several years, later deeding the property to their son and his wife, Tracy and Ethel Howe. The Howe’s owned a hardware store on Mission Avenue in downtown Oceanside.

Motorcycle office Guy Woodward stands on the center line of the 300 block North Hill Street (Coast Highway) in 1949. Mason building is to the center right, with a portion of the original brick exposed. Oceanside Historical Society

Harold C. Cross, attorney rented an office upstairs in the 1940s, along with a variety of other businesses in the 1950s, including the Merchants Credit Association, and attorneys Daubney & Stevens.

View of stairway leading from first floor to the second level (photo taken in 2017)

By the mid to late 1940’s the building was divided into three suites fronting Hill Street or Coast Highway, to include 301, 303 and 305. The Fun Shop, a novelty store occupied one suite at 301 North Hill from 1948 to at least 1963, which was operated by T. L. O’Farrell and L. K. Broadman. Swanson’s Service Studio occupied the storefront at 303 North Hill Street from about 1948 to 1959, which was later occupied by Marine Tailors in the 1970s and 1980s. Artcraft Cleaners occupied the third suite at 305 North Hill from the mid 1940’s to about 1981.   

300 block of North Hill Street/Coast Highway circa 1948. To the right is the Mason Building with Swanson’s Studio and Artcraft Cleaners signage. Oceanside Historical Society

Years before Room 204 was used for polygraph exams (curiously), the office suite was used for a tailor’s shop in the mid 1940s, then rented out to Lorraine Nelson, a public stenographer.

One of the upstairs suites used for at one for polygraph exams (photo taken in 2017)

In or about 1965, the owners “modernized” the exterior of the building, placing the metal screening along the upper portion and adding the large awning which changed the whole look of the building. Ceramic tiling was added to the exterior and the beautiful grating above the windows was either removed or covered as well.

Mason Building/H&M Military Store, 1979 Oceanside Historical Society

In 1973 Harry and Mary Cathey purchased the building at 301 North Hill/Coast Highway. Prior to that they had been tenants operating H&M Military Store which became a very successful business for decades. The Cathey’s and their store were fixtures in downtown Oceanside, supporting the military and their community. They sponsoring the local parades for many years.

301 North Hill aka Coast Highway (google view 2017)

Harry Eugene Cathey was born in Arkansas in 1928. He served in the United States Marine Corps and was stationed at Camp Pendleton. After he got out of the service, he and his wife Mary made their home in Oceanside. Harry operated Harry’s Shoe Repair store at 304 Third Street in 1954, and later moved into the Mason Building at 410 Third Street (Pier View Way) opening the Square Deal Shoe Repair store.

John Gomez with patron in the Esquire Barber Shop, 412 Third Street/Pier View Way, circa 1970s. Oceanside Historical Society

In 1954 Jack Noble operated Noble’s Barber Shop at 412 Third Street which later became the Esquire Barber Shop by 1959 and still operates under the same name today and owned by John Gomez.

410 and 412 Pier View Way (photo taken in 2019)

While the barber shop and another storefront continues to operate at 410 and 412 Pier View, the majority of the building sits empty. Its exterior has been marred by the removal of ceramic tiling (not original to the building) with boarded windows.

Damage to exterior with the removal of the ceramic tile. (photo taken March 8, 2024)

There is hope for the building. The large, corrugated metal façade which wraps around the upper portion of the building could be removed and the original exterior on the second story appears largely, if not completely, intact and would reveal its original cement finish in art deco style.

View of metal façade from interior second floor (photo taken in 2017)

Just what will become of the building is unknown but certainly its history is worth knowing and the building worth preserving. The potential for exposing the beautiful Art Deco façade and beautifying this downtown corner is just waiting to happen.

Historic homes and buildings provide character and a sense of place. “How will we know it’s us without our past?” – John Steinbeck, Grapes of Wrath

Julius, The Crow Who Lived at the Mission San Luis Rey

In the mid-1930s, a young crow landed or flew into the grounds of the Mission San Luis Rey and into the hearts of the priests. The bird was friendly and curious, and the students there named him Julius.

Julius became an attraction at the Mission and provided “fun and diversion for those in residence” and “was a source of surprise to visitors” many of whom he befriended as well. He came to the call of Father Dominic and would often land on the heads of his friends, to the delight of onlookers.  

Julius the Crow at the Mission San Luis Rey, 1938. Herman J Schultheis Collection
Los Angeles Photographers Collection

Julius became something of a local celebrity and even drew the attention of a photographer, Herman J. Schultheis. Schultheis worked in the film industry in Los Angeles, including Disney where he worked on the animated features Fantasia, Dumbo, Bambi and Pinocchio.

Schultheis was also an avid amateur photographer who traveled the world. He visited the Mission San Luis Rey in 1938 to take a photo of Julius, the only known images of the beloved bird. In the photos Julius appears to be interested in the photographer, looking directly into the camera.

Julius the Crow at the Mission San Luis Rey, 1938. Herman J Schultheis Collection
Los Angeles Photographers Collection

Crows can recognize human faces and are the only non-primates that can make tools. They are also capable of abstract reasoning, problem-solving, and even group decision-making.

Hower, as smart as a crow can be, Julius did not understand electricity. One September day in 1938, after taking a bath in the Mission fountain, feathers still wet, he flew to rest on a power wire and was immediately killed.

The fountain at the Mission San Luis Rey where Julius took his last bath. Oceanside Historical Society

The local newspaper reported there was “mourning among the padres and brothers out at the Old Mission of San Luis Rey, and among the Sisters at the Academy nearby.”

Days before his untimely death, the Mission held their annual Fiesta at which Julius, who was “perpetually hungry” was a beloved guest and “feasted from most of the plates.”

Julius, who was hand-raised “in the church”, was likely given a proper burial and a final blessing.

Julius the Crow at the Mission San Luis Rey, 1938. Herman J Schultheis Collection
Los Angeles Photographers Collection

Wilton S. Schuyler, Oceanside Inventor

Did you know that one of the earliest motor vehicles was designed right here in Oceanside? It was invented by Wilton S. Schuyler, who named his motorized vehicle the “Oceanside Express”.

Wilton was the son of John F. and Anne (Barlow) Schuyler. Born in 1875 in Superior, Nebraska, Wilton Sumner Schuyler came to Oceanside with his parents in 1887.

John Schuyler’s Hardware Store, 408 Third Street (Pier View Way) circa 1888

In 1888 his father built a hardware store on Third Street (now Pier View Way). It is very likely that Wilton began working on his invention at his father’s store, which was later converted into a boarding house and is now The Brick Hotel at 408 Pier View Way.

The July 23, 1898, edition of the Oceanside Blade newspaper reported:  “W. S. Schuyler, the Oceanside inventor, has just been granted seventeen claims for patents on a motor carriage.  Oceanside is getting to the front with its representation of inventions.  We’ll soon be riding in motor carriages …”

Wilton Schuyler was just 24 years old when he developed his prototype and was issued his patent for “a gasoline-engine, propelled vehicle.”

Wilton Schuyler’s prototype of his motor vehicle (chassis) the “Oceanside Express”

He commented years later, “At the time I commenced designing the self-propelled vehicle, the word ‘automobile’ was not yet used. Horseless carriage and motor vehicle were the names used in such vehicles. The only such a vehicle I had ever heard of at that time was made in Los Angeles, California, and it had four 1-cylinder engines, located on the four corners of a frame and all solid to the axles.”

Schuyler filed his patent for his vehicle on April 1, 1898, and then received Patent, No. 624,689, on May 9, 1899.

Patent image of Schuyler’s vehicle

A portion of his patent paperwork read: “Be it known that Wilton Sumner Schuyler, a citizen of the United States, residing at Oceanside, in the county of San Diego and State of California, have invented new and useful improvements in Motor Vehicles, of which the following is a specification:

One particular object of my invention is to so arrange a motor-vehicle that the motor and all of the heavy mechanism may be carried upon a spring-supported vehicle-bed, so as to avoid the loss of power….

A particular object of my invention is to provide means whereby a motor-vehicle capable of satisfactory general use may be produced and without the use of pneumatic tires, which are expensive, liable to wear out, and unsatisfactory in use from various other reasons.

Schuyler’s vehicle also included a headlight which turned in the same direction as the front wheels were turned, as well as a power steering apparatus.

February 3, 1949 Springfield News, (Springfield, Ohio) Courtesy Clark County Historical Society

The headlight invented by Schuyler was used on some of Henry Ford’s first Model T’s and for awhile Wilton was engaged in the manufacturing of these headlights.  The power steering device which Schuyler designed was used on various types of modern heavy machinery.

By 1910 Wilton Schuyler and his wife Carrie, whom he married in 1897, had moved to Missouri where he manufactured gas stoves.  In addition to his prototype automobile, Schuyler had a number of other patents which included a fire alarm, a pancake turner, an adjustable pulley-hanger, a washing machine and an accelerator for combustion engines.

Schuyler died in Springfield, Ohio in 1949 at the age of 73. His obituary, which was published in dozens of newspapers from coast to coast, made mention of his early “automobile” invented in Oceanside, California.

The State (Columbia, South Carolina) · Fri, Feb 4, 1949 · Page 22
Wilton S. Schuyler’s obituary was published around the US, noting his invention of an early “automobile”

Beach Patios Along The Strand

If you’re a Strand cruiser or a beach walker, you may have noticed a curious concrete structure on the 400 block of the South Strand. There used to be two, one at 416 South Strand and one at 408. The latter one is still very visible.

What remains of a beach patio, 408 South Strand, Google View 2022

What was the purpose of the structures? Very simply – beachfront patios. The patios were built in the 1950s as an amenity for guests staying at the beach cottages of Vista by the Sea, 408 S. Strand, owned by Joseph Harris. The other patio was built in front of McComas Terrace Motel, 416 S. Strand, owned by Max McComas.

The beach patio in front of the McComas Terrace Motel, 416 South Strand.

The patios provided guests a somewhat “private” perch just across from the beachfront property they were renting and included steps down to the sand. The concrete pad in front of the McComas Motel had convenient openings in order to erect beach umbrellas.

Beach side view of concrete wall at 408 South Strand, 2010

The patios were likely constructed by the property owners, as erosion began taking a toll on Oceanside’s beach south of the pier in the early 1950s. As sandy areas for beachgoers dwindled, the patios were meant for motel/cottage guests only (implied or otherwise).

However, this was public beach and around the time the 1976 California Coastal Act was approved, the patios could no longer be maintained or kept private.

Remnants of “McComas” patio, 416 South Strand, Google View 2016

After decades of heavy surf, the concrete slabs have deteriorated and the steps washed away. By 2022 rocks covered any semblance of the McComas patio in front of 416 South Strand.

The Blade Tribune Building in South Oceanside

The large brick building at 1722 South Coast Highway is going over extensive changes and a “new transformation” but here’s a brief history of the building and some of the newspaper’s owners and publishers.

The building was built to house the Oceanside Blade-Tribune newspaper, which originated as the Oceanside Blade in 1892. It was a small but important weekly newspaper which provided world and local news to the residents of Oceanside.

Paul Beck, co-owner of the Oceanside Blade Tribune

Brothers Paul and Harold Beck, brothers who hailed from Iowa arrived in Oceanside in the late 1920s. They purchased the Oceanside Blade along with with another newspaper, the Oceanside News, and created the Oceanside Daily Blade Tribune and the paper went from a weekly publication to a daily one.

The Blade Tribune building at 401 First Street (Seagaze Drive) in 1936

In 1936 the Becks hired architect Irving Gill to design a new building for their growing business. Located at 401 First Street (now Seagaze Drive) it was Gill’s last design, which was restored in 2019.

Tom Braden with wife Joan and their 8 children.

The Becks sold the Blade-Tribune newspaper in 1954, to Thomas W. Braden. Braden was at one time an official at the Central Intelligence Agency, and his wife Joan worked for Nelson Rockefeller. Rockefeller loaned Braden the money to purchase the Oceanside Blade-Tribune.

The Bradens were connected in both political and social circles. Joan was a close friend of Jacqueline Kennedy. Tom Braden was a regular on “Meet the Press” and was appointed president of the California State Board of Education.

In 1975 Braden authored a book about his family which became a popular television series under the same name: “Eight is Enough.” The Braden family lived on South Pacific Street near the gated entrance of St. Malo.

Braden’s book inspired a television series in the 1980s.

Braden sold the newspaper to Robert S. Howard of Naples, Florida in 1967. Howard founded Howard Publications in 1961 which eventually included 19 newspapers from around the country.

Howard was the son of a small weekly newspaper publisher in Wheaton, Minnesota. Born October 23, 1924, he was the third of three children. During World War II Howard left the University of Minnesota to join the military. As a Second Lieutenant in the Army Air Corp he was a navigator and nose gunner in bombers over the South Pacific. He served valiantly, earning a Purple Heart after being shot down in the Battle of Leyte in 1944.

After his return to Wheaton, he took over the family newspaper and over his lifetime amassed 18 newspapers as Howard Publications, with over 2,000 employees and nearly a half million circulation.

The Blade Tribune Building, 1722 South Hill Street (Coast Highway) circa 1980s.

In August of 1967 construction began of 11,500 square foot “modern printing plant” at 1722 South Hill Street (Coast Highway) at an estimated cost of $700,000. That same year, Thomas Missett became the general manager and publisher. The new publishing plant was built by local contractors, Richardson Brothers, and completed in 1968.

Tom Missett, publisher of the Oceanside Blade Tribune

A large two-story addition was made years later. In 1989 the Blade-Tribune was changed to The Blade-Citizen and then again in 1995, renamed the North County Times, which ceased publication by 2013. After 120 years of a hometown newspaper, the Oceanside Blade was no more.

The building has had several tenants over the years, including a vintage market. While Oceanside’s newspaper days may have ended, the two buildings built by the publishers are still standing, one repurposed as a restaurant, the Blade 1936, and the other in South O, in the process of being reinvented.

Featured

History of the MiraMar Restaurant

The worn and weathered motel and adjacent property at 815 North Coast Highway has seen better days, and its remaining days are numbered. There is no arguing that the property is an eyesore but there’s a history behind each building and this one is worth telling.

The cornerstone of the old Mira Mar Restaurant and Motor Inn complex was a house built in 1887, which was once the home of William Bandini Couts. Even after 135+ years, it is still recognizable because of its architectural details and roofline. This residence was originally located on the east side of the 700 block of North Hill Street (North Coast Highway). It was moved to its location at 815 North Hill Street in about 1920 and doubled as a residence and a roadside cafe called the M&M Barbecue.

The home of William B. Couts was built in 1887 and originally located on the 700 block of North Hill Street (North Coast Highway) before it was moved to 815 North Hill Street in 1920.

Prior to its role as a restaurant, after it was moved, the site served as Baker Nursery owned by James Baker who promoted and sold avocado and naval orange trees in 1927 to 1929.

In about 1930 the building became a restaurant called Ray’s Café that did quite well because of the traffic coming through Oceanside on the Highway 101. Ray’s moved one block north and the former Couts’ residence would become the M & M Bar-B-Q operated by a couple named Mac and Mazie.

A parade float sits in front of the M & M Bar-B-Q in the 1930s

“Mack” Roman Evashchuck was born in 1896 in Russia and came to the US in 1916. As a new immigrant, he enlisted in the service in March of 1918 during World War I, assigned to the Medical Attachment of the 137th Aero Squadron. He served a little more than a year and was honorably discharged.

In 1930 Mack was living in Beverly Hills, California and working as a chef. He came to Oceanside in 1932 and along with Mazie S. Eckhart, opened the M&M Barbecue. Their roadside café was an instant success.

Mack’s business partner, Mazie Grace Severt, was born in 1898 in Pike, Oregon. She was married to Clarence Eckhart in 1925 and the couple moved to Los Angeles in 1930. Clarence worked for an ice company while Mazie worked as a waitress. Clarence died in a tragic accident on August 18, 1930 while driving his delivery truck.

It is very likely Mack and Mazie were working together at the same restaurant in Los Angeles when they decided to go into business together in Oceanside.

The M&M Bar-B-Q was the perfect place to stop for hungry motorists coming into Oceanside. It would be one of the first restaurants they would see coming into town. It was also convenient that Harold Fikstad had a service station next door to the south.

The Associated Service Station owned by Harold Fikstad located next door to the M&M Bar-B-Q (the building is just visible between the pumps)

In 1936 Mack, as a representative of the Oceanside Chamber of Commerce, began to promote semi-pro baseball, eventually serving as commissioner. In November of that year Mack and Mazie traveled to Reno, Nevada where they were married.

Their happiness would be short lived, however, as Mack became ill and was hospitalized for over a year. He died May 7, 1939 and was buried at the Los Angeles National Cemetery. Mazie did not stay in Oceanside. The restaurant which bore their initials M&M closed temporarily but would reopen and come back better than ever.

Oliver Morris, owner of the Carlsbad Hotel, purchased the property in 1942 and opened M & M Restaurant, elevating the roadside café to a destination spot.  A grand opening was held July 28, 1942.

The new M&M Restaurant owned by Oliver Morris. The Couts house is still visible after the remodel.

It would become one of the most popular restaurants in Oceanside (and perhaps North San Diego County) in its time, frequented by residents and tourists along with Hollywood celebrities and politicians, such Bing Crosby, Bob Hope, Barry Goldwater, Pierre Salinger, and California Governor Ronald Reagan.

The M&M in about 1948 after another remodel of front entrance.

Oliver Miller Morris was born in 1895 in Ohio. He too served in World War I and in 1917 married Gladys Genevieve Goodwin, whose father was an hotelier. In 1919 “Ollie” Morris owned and managed the Hotel Akron in Ohio. He and Gladys were mentioned countless times in the “society” columns of the local newspaper there. They had three daughters, Georgeann, twins Mary and Barbara, and a son Thomas.

Oliver Miller Morris

In 1938 Morris sold his hotel in Akron and the following year it was announced that he had purchased the California-Carlsbad Hotel in Carlsbad, California.

With the opening of his new restaurant in Oceanside, Morris aimed to make the M & M Restaurant memorable, referred to as a swanky place and noted in society and travel columns in Los Angeles and Palm Springs.

In 1942 daughter Georgeann Morris married Nacio Herb Brown, a songwriter who wrote popular songs and Broadway hits such as “Singin’ in the Rain” and “Good Morning”, among others. Brown had a home in Oceanside’s exclusive enclave, St. Malo, and the restaurant benefitted with this “Hollywood” connection.

Morris sold the Carlsbad Hotel in the 1940s and he and Gladys Morris purchased a large ranch on Gopher Canyon Road. Sadly, Gladys Morris died in 1946.

The MiraMar Restaurant in about 1949

Oliver Morris became president of the Ocean-Desert Highway Association in 1949, promoting travel between Oceanside and Palm Springs. He was also elected as president of the Oceanside Chamber of Commerce. He continued to operate his Oceanside restaurant renamed the MiraMar Restaurant in 1949, which was advertised as “one of Southern California showplaces.” Angel Crosthwaite was the head of the MiraMar’s “special entertainment staff” in the Ship Room. Assisting him were Doris Ferris and Thelma Sheets.

The Ship Room at the MiraMar Restaurant

One of the most notable features of the MiraMar was the Rocking Ship that marked its entrance. It was built by B. E. Jones in the late 1940s. In 1952 a wine and food shop was added to the north side of the restaurant.

In the late 1950’s Morris became co-owner of the Bel Air Hotel in Los Angeles. It was frequented by Hollywood stars including Marilyn Monroe, Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn.

Morris remarried in 1962 to Patti Higgins, public relations director for the Beverly Hilton Hotel where she handled hotel relations with many notables, including Presidents Truman, Eisenhower and Kennedy. The couple honeymooned in Europe, their nuptials featured in society and gossip columns.

Clyde Truss and wife, left, Mrs. and Mike Daugherty, center right, and Ray Feist with wife, at the MiraMar circa 1955

In 1955 the MiraMar Restaurant was sold to Frank Marcom and D. R. “Mike” Daugherty. The pair had managed the restaurant for nearly five years. A corporation, the MiraMar Restaurant, Inc., was formed with Morris as president, Daugherty as vice-president and Marcom as secretary-treasurer.

Coffee Shop Diner at the MiraMar

Mike Daugherty worked for Morris from 1934 to 1939 in the hotel business while living in Ohio. He came to California when Morris purchased the Carlsbad Hotel and then returned to Ohio until 1951 when he again relocated to California, along with his three children, Kathleen, Michael and Sue.

Postcard image of the MiraMar Restaurant and Mira Mar Inn

In January of 1958 Daugherty announced plans for a 25-unit motel and pool next door to the MiraMar Restaurant. The newspaper reported that “Oliver M. Morris, president of the firm, intends to build the first 25 units this year on land immediately” and that “future plans call for the addition of another 25 units.”

The architectural firm of Paderewski, Mitchell and Dean of San Diego, designers of the Mission Valley Country Club, Town and Country, the remodelers of the El Cortez Hotel and other commercial structures were hired to design the new motel.

Bar at the MiraMar Restaurant

Construction began in October of 1958. At that time the project was planned for a two-story, 32-unit building with garage space below. The motel features would include “soundproof walls and floors, tile baths, electric heat, switchboard telephone service, television and a heated swimming pool.” The builder was E. E. Betraun of Vista, who also built the Oceanside Beach Community Center and the local County Health Center at Mission and Barnes. Eventually a glass elevator was added to the structure bringing guests from the motel to the restaurant entrance.

In 1967 the MiraMar Restaurant underwent remodeling, adding a new dining room, named the First Cabin, and a new coffee shop. The dining room offered banquet services for parties up to 120 and was decorated in “dark walnut paneling and heavy beamed ceilings.” A nautical motif continued with “sailing ships, barometers and ship telegraph” and an open flame Franklin fireplace.  

Event in the MiraMar Banquet Room, circa 1959

Oliver Miller Morris died in 1983 at the age of 88. He was buried in Ohio. Patti Morris continued to make her home on the Morris Ranch on Gopher Canyon Road until her death in 2009.

Oliver “Ollie” Morris

The MiraMar restaurant was sold to Warner Lusardi in 1976. He partnered with Bobby Astleford and Bert Lawrence. Bert Lawrence, whose family owned Lawrence Canyon, was infamous for riding his horse into the restaurant.

MiraMar Restaurant and Coffee Shop building, circa 1974

But by the 1980s, the restaurant was showing its age and tastes were changing. The MiraMar fell out of favor and was in decline. In 1985 the restaurant reopened as Jerard’s, a restaurant and nightclub advertising itself as “an old landmark with a new dimension” but its success was short-lived. In 1991 the building housed a realty office and eventually sat vacant, stripped of its nautical and antique décor.  

The MiraMar Restaurant and Inn in 1979.

The MiraMar Inn’s clientele changed dramatically from the tourists of the 1950s and 1960s. In the 1980s its reputation was less than stellar and frequented by numerous problems and criminal activity. It was a sad fall from grace for a “cornerstone” property that was once so beloved and made popular by “Mack and Mazie” and then made glamorous by Ollie Morris.

History of the Riverbottom Bar

Whether a hangout for Marines, Bikers, or thirsty locals in general, the Riverbottom Bar in the San Luis Rey Valley may date back to the 1870s. The bar was located in what was once the San Luis Rey Township, a rural but well established community by the 1860s.

Named because of its proximity to the Mission San Luis Rey, the township existed nearly two decades before the city of Oceanside was established in 1883. Residents in the valley came to the small village area because it offered a stage stop, Freeman’s blacksmith, Simon Goldbaum’s store, a post office and a school. San Luis Rey was featured in its own column in the San Diego Union newspaper, providing information on weather, crops and local happenings. Frank Whaley of San Diego’s Old Town eventually published a small newspaper called the San Luis Rey Star.

Early Map of the San Luis Rey Township in 1873. (Filed as Map 0076).
In 1920 the County would build a road through the north half of Block 2, eliminating lots 1 through 7.

In 1873 E. G. Locke, who had been appointed postmaster in 1870, filed an official map of the township, of which he was listed as the proprietor. The township of San Luis Rey consisted of ten blocks and 7 streets. The street names no longer exist but were as follows: Main Street, San Luis Avenue, Broadway, Spring Avenue, University, Mission Avenue (not to be confused with the present-day road) and Locke Avenue, named after Elbridge G. Locke himself.

Locke partnered with local rancher William Wallace, operating a store as well as a hotel together. Wallace married Locke’s daughter, Alice on July 9, 1874.

In 1876 Locke erected a new hotel at San Luis Rey, which he named the Locke Hotel. After the new town of Oceanside was established, several businesses in San Luis Rey relocated there, including the San Luis Rey Star newspaper which then became the Oceanside Star. The Locke Hotel was to Oceanside and became one of its earliest hotels.

The Tremont Hotel on the 300 block of North Cleveland Street was once the Locke Hotel and located in San Luis Rey.

William Wallace, Locke’s one time partner, died in 1892. His widow Alice Locke Wallace owned a strip of land which is present day North El Camino Real (east of Douglas Drive). She served as postmistress in San Luis Rey from 1893 to 1908 and her son Lee Wallace followed her in the position until 1912.

On January 13, 1912 it was announced that “Lee Wallace has resigned as postmaster at San Luis Rey, and a petition is being circulated for the appointment of John W. Bradley.”

John Bradley then became postmaster, and the new owner of the Mission Store where the post office was located. In 1915 Crutcher Morris purchased the Mission Store and was subsequently appointed postmaster in 1916. William P. Jensen acquired the Mission Store and served as the postmaster of San Luis Rey from 1917 to 1932.

In 1932 Roy and Marian Sager purchased several lots in the township including Lots 8 through 13 in Block 2 from William Jensen. In 1933 Marian Sager was confirmed as postmistress of San Luis Rey. She then applied for a new location for the post office, just across the street.

1937 aerial view of the San Luis Rey Township. The red arrow indicates the Mission Store location owned by Sager and what would become the Riverbottom Bar. The blue arrow is the present day San Luis Rey Bakery; the yellow arrow is the San Luis Rey Schoolhouse built on the grounds of the Mission, and the green arrow indicates the west portion of the Mission itself.

In 1942 Roy and Marion Sager, father and son, announced their intention to sell their interest in their “grocery and meat market business consisting of merchandise and stock in trade known as the Mission store” which was “situated” on Lots 11, 12 and 13 of Block 2. While the Sagers maintained ownership of the real property, they sold the Mission Store business to Phyllis Goggin and C. Shaw.

Phyllis Mary Goggin was the widow of Daryl Henry Goggin, who was killed during the bombing of Pearl Harbor December 7, 1941. His is listed as one of the approximately 390 “unknowns” from the USS Oklahoma at the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific. Phyllis Goggin died just two years later at the age of 38 in 1943.

The newly opened San Luis Rey Inn in 1946

By 1946/47 the building owned by the Sagers was leased to Andrew and Marguerite Weir and would become restaurant called the San Luis Rey Inn.

The San Luis Rey Inn had a flat roof, but the front façade and a portion of the west elevation featured a shed roof covered in clay tile. The front of building included five arched bays that resembled garage doors (an additional “bay” was also on the west end.)

A closer look at the building in several photos reveals a house on the west end, its sunken roof exposed to the elements, which was sometimes obscured from view by the leaves of the large Pepper Tree planted next door. (This structure is also clearly visible in Google Maps View from 2008 to 2019).

The San Luis Rey Inn building is similar in size and length to that of the Goldbaum Store and Hotel, once located in the San Luis Rey Township. A photo of Goldbaum’s store clearly depicts a house behind what is a “western store front”. This storefront could have easily been removed, along with the wooden parapet and then the porch enclosed. Even the name “San Luis Rey Inn” appears to be homage to Goldbaum’s San Luis Rey Hotel. As late as 1919 the building was used as polling place and believed to be used as the post office and store in the township in the 1920s.

Simon Goldbaum’s Hotel and Store in San Luis Rey. Simon is standing on the porch roof.

Simon Goldbaum was born in 1848 in Grabow, Prussia (now Germany). As a young man of about 18 he came to America. By 1868 he was living in San Francisco, but soon after moved to Los Angeles where he clerked at a general store.

Goldbaum became a Naturalized Citizen in 1871 and that year purchased a general store at Monserate (near Fallbrook). By 1873 Goldbaum moved to the San Luis Rey Township where he purchased a store and hotel building.

Ad for the Goldbaum Hotel, 1875

Simon had four brothers, William, Louis, Max and Albert who would all settle in San Diego County, namely San Luis Rey and the new town of Oceanside.

The Goldbaum his hotel and store was a social gathering spot with dances and other events held there. 1878 Simon Goldbaum was appointed postmaster of San Luis Rey and his hotel/general store would have housed the post office as was customary. He was appointed postmaster again in 1883 and 1885. He was so well known and liked, Goldbaum was called the Mayor of San Luis Rey.

He married Margaret Marks in 1886 and they had two daughters, Pearl and Helen. Pearl died in 1904 at the age of 16 due to pneumonia.

In 1901 Goldbaum was granted a license to sell alcohol at this San Luis Rey Store. He sold his business in 1907 and moved to San Diego. However, he still maintained ownership of nearly 1,000 acres of farmland in the San Luis Rey Valley. Simon Goldbaum died in 1915 at the age of 69.

If the Riverbottom Bar building was in fact the Goldbaum building, it certainly followed the historical trend as store, post office, hotel (of sorts) and saloon remodeled and transformed as the San Luis Rey Inn.

In 1947 the San Luis Rey Inn was owned by Andrew Weir and his wife Marguerite, who provided patrons food and drinks along with the opportunity to join in a community dance at what was referred to as a “Hoedown”. An ad from the 1947 Oceanside Blade Tribune read:

Big Okie Hoedown at the San Luis Rey Inn. Dance to the music of the Okie Hoedown. Hours from six to midnight.”

The San Luis Rey Inn was frequented by both locals and Marines from the nearby military base, Camp Pendleton, established in 1942. Although it was considered “out of the way” for Oceanside residents, it was a popular nightspot beckoning customers with the romance of “Mission Days”….

Tonight and every night in old Spanish settings, dining and dance at San Luis Rey” … “All lit up in neon and next to the large Texaco station.”

Betty Lanpher Miranda, born and raised in the San Luis Rey Valley, remembers as a child that the owner of the restaurant kept a monkey in the large, old Pepper Tree. It startled her one day as she was standing outside, but she also recalled it was tethered in some manner so as not to run away.

Owner Andrew Weir died suddenly of a heart attack in 1948, however, and wife Marguerite put the establishment up for sale by placing a classified ad in the local newspaper:

Must be sold San Luis Rey Inn. Beer, Cafe, party or club room. Living quarters, lease and equipment. Best offer takes.” (It is noteworthy that “living quarters” is mentioned in this ad, in what may have been the Goldbaum hotel.)

The following year the San Luis Rey Inn was under new management. New owners “Johnny and Nell” (Doris M. Danforth and Nellie Burdick) offered their clientele “home-cooked foods and Coors beer on tap.”

Richard Miranda, who came to Oceanside at a young age in the 1930s, remembered that he and his friends were sold beers by the bartender when they were still in high school. However, they were not allowed to stay and had to take their beers outside and drink elsewhere as they were underage!

The San Luis Rey Inn remained a popular eatery in the 1950s offering customers “specialty steak and one dollar Spanish plates” of “tacos, tamales enchiladas at reasonable prices.”

The small township benefited from increased traffic from the “Camp Pendleton Road” as Marines and farm workers traveled through. Its small business “district” expanded including Webster & Light Radiator Repair, Brandt’s Cut Rate Rocket Station and Rudy’s Auto Wrecking.

The town of San Luis Rey in 1958. (looking east)

In 1958 Nellie Burdick sold the San Luis Rey Inn to Gene and Ethel Weaver. A legal notice read:

All stock in trade, fixtures, equipment and good will of a certain cafe business known as SAN LUIS REY INN and located at across from the Post Office, Mission Road street, in the City of San Luis Rey, County of San Diego.”

The Weavers also owned the Base Café on North Hill Street (Coast Highway). They renamed their newly acquired establishment “Ethel’s Bar & Grill.” On February 13 1959, Tommy Duncan, a well known Western singer/songwriter performed at Ethel’s.

But the following month, in March 1959, a shooting occurred at Ethel’s and may have been the beginning of the establishment’s “reputation.”

Robert Abilez, a resident of Vista, entered the bar and asked fellow patrons to help him engage in a fight. When they refused Abilez pulled a .38 caliber revolver from his pocket but then dropped it on the floor. After picking up his weapon he sat next to two men, Almarez Vidales and Contreras Sanchez. As they drank their beers, Abilez insisted that the men go with him to fight. When they refused he drew the revolver again and fired. Sanchez stepped back and the bullet grazed his heavy leather jacket, and hit Vidales in the forearm. Lawrence Harris, the bartender, disarmed Abilez and held him while Ethel Weaver called the sheriff’s office.

The San Luis Rey Inn in 1958 before name change to Ethel’s.

Later Ethel’s would move to a location closer to the “back gate” of Camp Pendleton, and what was once known as the San Luis Rey Inn was renamed the Riverbottom Bar.

Even as Oceanside city limits expanded eastward, San Luis Rey remained a separate township, although the city of Oceanside limits surrounded it by the 1960s. It was even given its own zip code – 92068. By the 1970s it was annexed to the City. The Riverbottom Bar was given a new address of 473 North El Camino Real.

1969 Thomas Guide showing that the town of San Luis Rey and the Mission were part of the County and not city limits.

Roy Sager maintained ownership of the land that the Riverbottom and other businesses were located upon, (a total of 3 and half acres). In 1970 he sold Lots 8 through 13 in Block 2 and lots 1 through 7 in Block 3 to Roland House.

In 1976 William and Donna Justus, owners of Auto Parts and Salvage Inc. purchased the 3.5 acre property but continued to lease the building to various bar owners. In the 1980s Suzanne Ochoa owned the Riverbottom Bar. Her mother Eunice Walker ran the Long Branch Saloon in downtown Oceanside before it was demolished in 1982.

In July 1997 Charles and Patricia Baker became owners of the Riverbottom and ran it for several years.

It was both a favorite “hole in the wall” to some and a dump to others. One loyal customer wrote a review in 2013 and shared its long association with Marines:

Yes, it’s a dive bar. [It] has been here since roughly 1927. You grunts in Horno, cannon cockers in Las Pulgas, and grunts in San Mateo, ever heard of Iron Mike Hill? Well, he is real and he drinks here STILL! If you want off mainstream to have a blast come here!”

Riverbottom Bar, 473 North El Camino Real (Google view 2011)

Another reviewer in 2014 did their best in describing the Riverbottom Bar, while trying to keep expectations low:

This place is good. This place is a true dive. Dives aren’t glitzy, cutesy or thematic, despite what hipsters like to think. You don’t hang out there to pick up women; it’s not where the “crowd” hangs out. Your standard clientele are older Marines; you’ll get some Bikers and off duty Law Enforcement on some nights. It’s one of the older buildings in the area; it was built in the 1920s as a post office. It serves beer and bar snacks, nothing too special. I used to drink here with my grandpa (retired Marine). I always had a nice time there. If you behave yourself and keep your standards and expectations low you’ll have a nice time.”

The Riverbottom Bar (Google view 2015)

The Riverbottom Bar with its uneven floors, crumbling walls, aging booths and bar remained “unremarkable” and “unpretentious.” It was described as a hideaway, a low-budget watering hole and a “local artifact.” (Perhaps over 140 years old!)

Eventually the Riverbottom closed its doors. There were plans to reopen but it never happened. One day in 2020, the old building and its Pepper Tree were bulldozed. No one noticed as it happened during the pandemic, but a piece of history, perhaps dating back to the 1870s in the small Township of San Luis Rey, quietly disappeared.

Betty’s – Classic Oceanside

Beach concession stands have been around for 100 years or more, situated near and around Oceanside’s pier. They provided beach goers with many of the same essentials as they do today…food, cold refreshments, beach towels, etc.

One such amenity, however, has disappeared: the dressing room. Today folks come dressed for the beach — flip flops, bathing suit, cover-up or t-shirt and shorts. But oh so many years ago, flip flops and the bikini had yet to be “invented” and folks viewed trips to the beach a more formal affair — they came fully dressed.

In 1885 Founder Andrew Jackson Myers built a bathhouse below the bluff, north of the present day pier. Despite its name, it was not a place one could bathe, but instead change into “bathing attire” suitable for the beach. Dressing rooms remained in demand through the 1950s but as clothing and beach fashions change, they have since disappeared.

Myers’ bath house on the beach, circa 1888. Photo Oceanside Historical Society, Carpenter collection

Today restrooms sometimes double as a changing room, when needed. But in 1927 Ordinance 318 was passed which prohibited the Beach Comfort Station (aka beach restroom) as being used as a dressing room. There were several small dressing rooms operating on the beach (public and private).

In 1931 Archie Freeman built a small dressing room along The Strand, south of the Oceanside Pier and bandshell.  The building and surrounding area would soon after be purchased by the City of Oceanside.

Dressing room in background (right) in 1940. Oceanside Historical Society, Marjorie Johnson collection

The dressing room was leased out to various people who operated it during the tourist season and summer months. Marie Jones managed it in 1941 and in 1943 Mary E. Belew was given the lease. In 1944 sister-in-laws Orene and Lora Fay Guest were granted the lease. They operated the dressing rooms for 14 years. In addition to providing changing rooms, the facility also rented out beach equipment such as chairs, towels and flotation devices

Nadine McGill and Nadine Nadon in front of Dressing Rooms at the beach, 1946. Oceanside Historical Society

In 1943 the building was enlarged to serve Oceanside’s expanding population, which was growing at a rapid rate after the establishment of Camp Joseph H. Pendleton in 1942.

View of Oceanside Pier, parking lot and the dressing rooms, circa 1945. Oceanside Historical Society

In about 1950 a small restaurant was built just to the south of the dressing rooms. This beach concession was named “Betty’s” (sometimes referred to “Betty’s on the Beach” and Betty’s Place). The space was leased from the city and operated by Elizabeth B. Smith.

Dressing rooms, beach rentals and Betty’s on The Strand, 1950s. Oceanside Historical Society

Elizabeth Carpenter was born in 1904 in Plymouth, Pennsylvania. She met Charles Mayer Smith in Ohio where they both worked at a restaurant. (Charles had a daughter from a previous marriage named Betty.) Elizabeth and Charles married in 1924 and by 1938 moved to San Diego County, and lived for a time in El Cajon where they operated a restaurant. Their daughter Merry Jacqueline was born in 1939.

Elizabeth “Betty” and Charles Smith in one of their restaurants. Oceanside Historical Society

By 1949 the Smith family had moved to Oceanside where they purchased “Willard’s House of Good Food” located at 309 South Hill Street (Coast Highway). They renamed their establishment Smith’s Dining Room which operated for one year. Charles and Elizabeth Smith then began operating the beach cafe that would become a local fixture and beach hotspot.   

Dressing rooms and Betty’s on The Strand, 1950s. Oceanside Historical Society

Betty’s was a popular place for local teens and surfers. The adjacent parking on the Strand became nearly synonymous with the food stand. Betty’s remained on the Strand until the mid to late 1960s. Charles Smith died in 1964, Elizabeth in 1972. Both are buried at Eternal Hills Memorial Park in Oceanside.  

Betty’s and the parking lot that “old-timers” still call “Betty’s Lot” 1950s

Betty’s on the beach was so memorable to so many that although the restaurant was torn down decades ago, many locals still refer to the parking lot on The Strand as “Betty’s Lot”.